Some History

One of the things I still get a kick out of here, even after nearly three years, is driving past the town signs (every little bit of land in Massachusetts is part of some sort of town or city, jurisdictionally speaking, and the signs let you know when you’re passing from one jurisdiction to another) and seeing the founding dates – 1759, 1661, 1677, 1718. When some of these towns were settled, Europeans barely knew New Zealand existed – and Maori had only come to Aotearoa three or four centuries before that. It’s a whole different scale of history.

The University of Massachusetts, Amherst, on the other hand, is on quite a comprehensible scale. This week they’re breaking out the party hats (for which read: embarking on a very insistent course of asking for donations, because in the fine print of the enrollment forms for US universities is an agreement to be harassed for money for the rest of your life) to celebrate the university’s 150th anniversary. This makes UMass only a decade older than the University of Canterbury – although UC caught up quickly by graduating its first female student only two years after its first male students graduated, while UMass took another twelve years to admit women at all.

Celebratory banners on the Fine Arts Center (itself a fine display of UMass's devotion to the Cold War Soviet school of architecture.)

Celebratory banners on the Fine Arts Center (itself a fine display of UMass’s devotion to the Cold War Soviet school of architecture.)

cherrytree

Sort of made up for by some spring foliage. (To be fair, they’re also planting a whole lot of trees to celebrate the anniversary, it’s not *just* about fundraising.)

Let’s face it: it’s not easy being the flagship state university in a state which has more world-renowned private universities than you can shake a stick at. Not that UMass was always a university. It was founded in response to the Morrill Land-Grant Colleges Act of 1862, which sought to fund and encourage the foundation of agricultural and military colleges. 1862 was, of course, during the American Civil War, which helped get the Act passed by removing many of the states whose senators opposed it from the Senate. (The current political climate in the US almost makes that state of affairs seem tempting.)

The then-named Massachusetts Agricultural College was officially founded in 1863, but didn’t actually get any students or start classes until 1867, which makes 2013 sort of dubious as an anniversary in my opinion. (Roald Dahl’s Miss Trunchbull may have thought the best school was one without any students, and fighting your way through crowds of undergraduates can lean one towards this opinion, but they are sort of necessary for the definition of “school”.) It got upgraded to being “Massachusetts State University” in 1931, and the University of Massachusetts at Amherst in 1947. (There are other campuses – Boston, Lowell, Dartmouth, and Worcester – but people tend to forget about them unless they actually go there. This led to rather a lot of panicked corrections on the part of UMass Amherst two weeks ago when Dzhokhar Tsarnaev was reported to be a student at “UMass”. He was, but at the Dartmouth campus near Boston, not Amherst. The distinction is not usually quite so important.)

As part of rapid post-WWII expansion in the 1950s, a new science building was constructed and named after the Vermont senator who had sponsored the original Land-Grant Colleges Act. Most universities and colleges founded with the money from that act have a Morrill building somewhere on campus; ours still houses the Microbiology department, although half the department is moving this summer into the very newest science building on campus, which has untold luxuries like windows and break rooms and a floor plan that conforms to human logic.

Any map which has to be captioned "Don't Panic" is a map depicting something that went wrong somewhere.

Does not conform to human logic.

On the other hand, we still have the nuclear fallout shelter.

Slightly less comforting than all the "VERMONT YANKEE EVACUATION ZONE" signs you find if you drive a little way north (Vermont Yankee being the nearest nuclear power plant.)

Slightly less comforting than all the “VERMONT YANKEE EVACUATION ZONE” signs you find if you drive a little way north (Vermont Yankee being the nearest nuclear power plant.)

So if nuclear war ever does break out, those of us who are staying in Morrill – and missing out on the windows and break rooms and so on – will be much closer to safety.

NLSB4

North Korean saber-rattling aside, I’d rather have the windows. (I know this is an artist’s sketch, but it really does look just like this.)

Then again – there’s the map. We’ll have to find the fallout shelter first.

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Swings and Roundabouts

It’s been a curious sort of week from where I’m sitting in Western Massachusetts. I always tell people in New Zealand that I’m in “the part of Massachusetts that isn’t Boston”, but whether you like it or not (and a lot of people out here don’t like it, especially when it comes to the always-contentious transportation budget) Boston is the center around which Massachusetts revolves.

As evidenced by this display at the top of the Prudential Center, the good people of Boston sometimes take this a *tad* literally.

As evidenced by this display at the top of the Prudential Center, the good people of Boston sometimes take this a *tad* literally. Also: nice to know New Zealand ranks below Antarctica.

Apart from the five days I spent there in my first week in the US, I’ve only been back to Boston three times in the last three years, and one of those trips was to be dropped off at the airport, which hardly counts. I was there, though, on Saturday, attending the amazing annual Microbial Sciences Initiative Symposium at Harvard, where the university feeds us and lets us listen to brilliant microbiologists talk about their work. The third Monday in April is a public holiday in Massachusetts, Patriot’s Day, celebrating the beginning of the American Revolution; a lot of my friends and colleagues who came to the symposium stayed, taking advantage of the long weekend to hang out with friends and family in the big city.

So the bombings at the marathon on Monday afternoon brought a lot of checking Facebook and texting, and wondering that something this horrific should have happened in Boston, of all places, which wasn’t really a famous American city in the way that New York or Washington D.C. were, at an event that was so thoroughly innocuous. I don’t visit Boston often, but it’s psychologically close, and so is this horrible event.

But then, improbably, Parliament TV provided one of the best antidotes to senseless violence that you could possible get: purposeful righting of wrongs. I cried when I watched this, like a lot of Kiwis. It’s so rare that politics produces something so unambiguously right.

And this morning, the daffodils in the garden started opening.

Okay, "garden" is pushing it, but it'll get there.

Okay, “garden” is pushing it, but it’ll get there.

People do stupid random acts of violence for stupid reasons, and troll the entire country about whether they like gay people enough to vote to give them rights (yes, that means you, Chester Burrows), and people get up in Parliament and sing, and sometimes there are daffodils. It’s a strange week.

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The Blizzard of 2013

It might have caught the attention of some of you that we had a little bit of snow here in New England over the weekend. We actually got off pretty lightly here in Western Massachusetts, and by “lightly” I mean “only two feet of snow”, and also that our street was ploughed by midday Saturday and we never lost power (I don’t think anyone in Western Mass did, or only an isolated few). We still had chest-deep drifts and everything shut down for two days, but that’s small peanuts compared to what hit coastal Connecticut and eastern Massachusetts. We have had decent snowfall in the last three years – our first winter here gave us two or three feet on the ground for months running – but this is probably the most in one fell blow. And it was pretty fell.

Our LPG tanks probably give the best visual estimate of snowfall, i.e., A Lot.

Our LPG tanks probably give the best visual estimate of snowfall, i.e., A Lot.

This was our front door. Pro-tip for people building houses in New England: the doors should not open outwards.

We didn't even bother trying with the back door. Depending on snow melt, we might not until spring.

We didn’t even bother trying with the back door. Depending on snow melt, we might not until spring.

Continue reading

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Colds

I think I said something last week about it being really cold. Everyone: I was wrong. Now it’s really cold. The wind chill tomorrow morning is supposed to be -15F. If I didn’t have to leave the house FOR SCIENCE! (and, let’s be honest, because with the experiment I’m running the earlier I get in tomorrow the more likely I am to be home before midnight) I would be very tempted to not leave it at all.

Fortunately, I have recently been introduced to a traditional New England remedy for both being cold, and, allegedly, winter ailments of all descriptions: ginger brandy.

Well. Ginger "flavored".

For once, the internet isn’t very informative about this probably-dubious alcohol; this is all good traditional word-of-mouth (although Google auto-suggesting “ginger brandy for colds” as a search suggests that this is a well-spread word-of-mouth.) It’s nothing fancy; none of the bottles in the liquor store go for much above fifteen dollars, unless you’re buying quite literally litres of the stuff. My guess is that it’s just low-quality brandy that’s had ginger steeped in it until it takes up the flavour – ginger would reliably cover a lot of low quality.

What I am told by my friends – neither of whom are actually from New England, to caveat accurately – is that ginger brandy is renowned for stopping an incipient cold in its tracks if taken judiciously before it worsens. I haven’t had a chance to try this out, although I know perfectly well that viruses are entirely unbothered by alcohol when it is applied orally to their victim, and the story definitely wasn’t “clean your doorhandles and other often-touched surfaces with ginger brandy”. But as cold preventatives go, it sounds tempting.

It’s also supposed to help warm you up when the weather is trying to kill you quite cold out. From a purely scientific viewpoint, this is also unlikely to be true. From a folklorish  standpoint, the combination of alcohol (seems like it should warm you up! does just the opposite!) and ginger (the hottest form of flavouring traditional New England cooking recognises) should keep you nice and toasty. Something to do with how humans are really, really awesome at making specious associations between unrelated things and then using them to try and kill themselves.

Thing is, though: on a cold winter’s evening, this stuff is damn tasty (and is the perfect way to alcohol-ise any ginger beer you have on hand, for maximum gingery goodness.) That’s worth any number of scientifically dubious excuses to drink it. Especially when the weather is trying to kill you really cold out.

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Taxonomy By Night

We had a brief thaw here last week, enough to melt almost all the snow (though it was replenished quickly enough). Turns out one of the side-effects of “warm” (translation: above freezing) temperatures and low winds on an area with decent snow cover is very thick fog.

For the record, fog with snow is pretty eerie.

That doesn’t, however, stop it being winter, and winter brings all the little creatures who’ve survived the year scuttling into our house to escape the cold. The ladybirds which cluster around the lights and wander haphazardly across the kitchen table are a harmless manifestation of this phenomenon. The chipmunk which spent the summer taunting our cat just outside the window and some of last winter rummaging around inside the walls was less so, a) because of the noise and b) because of the danger to our electrical wiring. (It left, eventually.)

It’s worth noting at this point that Tia, our cat, for all her enthusiastic stalking of anything small and moving which wanders into her field of vision, has never proven particularly good at catching anything. Her New Zealand record was one mouse. Which is why I was a bit surprised to be woken up one night by her insistent meowing in my ear, and find her very proudly offering me this.

At least it wasn't: dismembered, disemboweled, or right under my hand when I flailed around to figure out what the cat's problem was.

Small dead mammals on my bed at four in the morning are one thing, but small dead mammals I can’t identify are quite another. After poking it gingerly with a biro to make sure it was dead, I negotiated it away from the cat and stashed it on top of the rubbish for later identification (i.e. at a time that was not four in the morning, when I could remember to put my glasses on.)

I’m pretty sure that it was a northern short-tailed shrew, which made me extra-glad it was dead, since they apparently have a poisonous bite. What it was doing in the house is another question, as Wikipedia claims they spend most of their time in underground burrows. But there have been some very suspicious squeaking noises from under the oven, and the cat has suddenly taken to spending a lot of time in the kitchen, staring at the oven. This often coincides with the squeaking noises. Sometimes at four in the morning. As yet, however, there is a distinct lack of dead shrews at that hour or any other, for which I think I am grateful.

What I would be most grateful for, however, is to never run into the inevitable result of many small mammals running about an ecosystem: a small-mammal-targeted predator. Like…this.

Yeah. That.

It maintains my thesis that small mammals are inherently evil: they attract snakes, what more evidence do you need?

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Twenty Below

The serious part of winter has arrived here in Western Massachusetts – we got a foot of snow between Christmas and New Year’s, and it is, admittedly, very pretty.

Snow. Lots of snow.

It’s also sticking around, because along with the snow, we’ve also got to the “really, ridiculously cold” part of winter. By “ridiculous”, I mean that when I left the house this morning it was -2.

-2 degrees Fahrenheit.

I’d sort of forgotten, what with last year’s mild winter, how much extra effort this sort of cold involves; every time you go outside, unless you’re very brave or very stupid or absolutely 100% keys-clutched-in-your-hand certain that you will and can be going inside in a period of time that can be measured in seconds without using both hands, you have to gear up. Okay, it’s not Antarctica, but the ten-minute walk to my bus stop (too cold to bike all the way in, and the bike racks freeze to the buses at anything below -5°C) requires at least three layers and as much skin coverage as possible. This morning, my sunglasses fogged up; when it didn’t clear after a few minutes tipped further down my nose, I took them off to investigate further. The thin layer of fog had frozen to them. That’s what we’re dealing with, here.

Strong wind after a fall of powdery snow creates great swirling veils around buildings as the snow blows off the roof in fine sheets and eddies around them.

These were the circumstances when we picked up a friend from the airport yesterday and took her back to her house – we’d been cat-sitting – to discover that it was a bit chilly inside. No problem; we turned up the thermostat. She offered us a cup of tea.

Everyone sat down around the kitchen table and resolved to wait for it to warm up; they had a central heating system powered by an oil furnace in the basement, it just needed a little bit of time. In a classic inversion of the frogs-in-boiling-water fable, each of us sat and drank our tea and chatted and pulled our outdoor gear back on piece by piece, because it would be terribly rude to complain of being cold when the other two people weren’t saying anything.Besides, the analogue thermostat was reading about 52°F, which is cold but not ridiculous. And it was going to start warming up any minute now.

Two hours later, we established that a) the furnace had run out of oil sometime in the last two days, and b) the actual temperature in the house was pretty close to freezing. I think the last time I was in a house that cold, I was visiting student friends in Dunedin. We managed to rustle up enough electric heaters to keep the place liveable overnight, before the oil company could come the next day, but it was a salutory lesson in not putting off having your heating supplies filled up until after you go away for the h0lidays. At best you might freeze your pipes. At worst, you’ll freeze yourself, and that’s no fun for anyone.

The snowmobilers - much-denied last winter - were out in force last weekend.

Technically, this isn’t even the coldest week of the year on average; that’s the next three weeks. Then we might make it back up to New Zealand winter temperatures by the end of March. The novelty will wear off sometime in February. Till then – hey. It is beautiful.

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Merry Christmas, Everyone

This is the view from my kitchen window.

Not featured: snow.

This is the forecast for Christmas Eve/Christmas Day:

I am mentally willing those accumulations up.

Many, many Christmas-related movies have taught me that it is common, nay, traditional, for the “white” part of “white Christmas” to be withheld until late on Christmas Eve or even Christmas morning, for maximum heart-warming emotional impact. But, you know, I’d be good with minimum heart-warming emotional impact. Anticipation is overrated.

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The World’s Best(???) Christmas Shop

You know that thing where the closer you live to a tourist attraction, the less likely you are to actually visit it? Like how I lived in Christchurch for six years and never visited the Antarctic Centre (although that had more to do with being a broke student and tourist traps attractions being priced for tourists) or how we’ve been in Western Massachusetts for two and a half years and the last time I was in Boston was two and a half years ago.

In an even more egregious example, before this weekend, we’d never been to the Yankee Candle flagship store, despite it being only ten minutes’ drive up the road. Yankee Candle is a company whose mission statement, as far as I can tell, is “confusing candles and perfume since some far too long ago time”. They also announce on the outside of their flagship store that it is the World’s Best Christmas Shop, which, as someone who takes the (secular) celebration of Christmas perhaps too seriously, seems like setting themselves a fairly high petard to be hoist on.

Exhibit A: their bags. "Christmas Cookie" isn't a scent. I'm not even sure if it's a *thing*, unless you count gingerbread, which does duty lots of other times of year too. And I'm pretty sure they have a gingerbread candle. In fact, I'm sure they do.

Nevertheless, they did deserve a chance to live up to this promise, so ten minutes up the road we went, only in part because Mike had promised to be more on board the Christmas train this year and I was possibly seeing how far I could push that by dragging him through a place full of Christmas-associated things that smelled like food but weren’t. (This is his stated reason for physically refusing to step foot in a Lush store.)

I’ll cut to the chase and state up-front that it was not the world’s best Christmas store. For one thing, there were all sorts of things which really should not be hung on Christmas trees, all the way from what appeared to be leftover Hallowe’en ornaments (note: skeletons playing violins do not belong next to your Christmas dioramas) to ornaments of the Queen, taking Anglophilia to an entirely new and disturbing level. For another, it was actually too dark in most of the Christmas store part to see what they were selling properly, and I can’t work out whether this was a sales tactic to disguise some of the tackier items or a misguided attempt to make it feel more Christmas-y.

However, the candles were definitely worth seeing, for the purposes of then believing. There were a few unscented tapers hidden in a corner, but everything else was about the smell. I found five, count’em, five different conifer-related scents. Some were things which I don’t even think have smells, and definitely not smells you can put in a candle.

To wit: I will grant that some weather has distinctive scents, but whatever Oncoming Storm smells like, apart from a rogue Gallifreyan, this does not smell like it. Although it was perfectly pleasant and did indeed last the fifteen hours it claimed to last.

Other things in this category: “Midsummer Eve” and “Snowflake Sparkle”. Other candles just failed to replicate their promises in peculiar ways (why light a “Baking Cookies” candle when you can have baking cookie-smell and cookies by baking them?) or surprised you by actually smelling like exactly what they said on the package even if it didn’t seem logically possible (Sun And Sand, which…yep. Beach smell.)

We got twelve little candles. I am sort of tempted to go back for more, just to see whether they can keep this up. In the meantime, I am hovering over the weather forecast in hopes that a watched forecast produces Christmas snow faster. My friends here have made a deal if that I’m still White Christmas-less by my last year, we’ll all go have Christmas in a cabin in Vermont or somewhere guaranteed to get snow. It’s already snowed and melted a couple of times this year, so there is an outside chance I won’t have to take them up on it.

The general tenor of Christmas in these parts is, of course, sobered by the Newtown, CT school shooting. This is really local news for us; I live in the Connecticut River Valley, which wends its way down to the sea a little east of New Haven, and Newtown is both physically close and very much like many of the small towns in Western Massachusetts. A lot of the faculty in our department have children just starting elementary school, close in age and often in name to the children who were murdered.

I’ve never been a fan of the American attitude to guns, but I have never felt particularly unsafe here because of their prevalence – for starters, I don’t own one, and most of the people I know don’t and wouldn’t either. The only guns I’ve come in sight of here have been carried by people in their official capacity. But occasionally – like the other day, when a homeless guy on the bus started threatening the driver (not usual round here), I thought: he could have a gun. It wasn’t likely, but I remembered that I was living somewhere where it was possible. Where Sandy Hook is possible.

I like living in this little piece of America; my friends, my community, my work. They are all positive. But this tragedy, the possibility of this tragedy, the idea that people I know and work with think it’s rational and logical and even necessary to own lethal weapons – days like this, moments like this, there’s things about this country I can’t like at all.

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Niagara

Niagara Falls reminded me startlingly of Las Vegas, for all that it’s several thousand miles and a number of ecosystem types away; in both places, someone looked at a breathtaking natural wonder and decided what would really enhance it was a bunch of architecturally dubious casinos. (I remain convinced that the view of the mountains was, hands-down, the best thing about Vegas.)

Niagara Falls, Canada, from the Bridge To The USA

Our visit wasn’t just to Niagara Falls, of course, it was to Niagara Falls, Canada, as was helpfully printed on just about every sign and piece of paper that mentioned the place’s name – although the Canadians themselves, and the road signs, just called it “The Falls”, as if there could be no other. Mind you, it’s not a thing likely to cause confusion in that part of the world. They’re pretty noticeable. And audible.

Water. Lots of.

We had intended to stay at the Falls for a couple of hours – maybe for lunch – and the price of parking definitely made that seem like a good idea, but it was so damn cold standing out there that we chickened out and decided to brave US border control instead, contenting ourselves with some decent photos. The town itself is a bit of a warren, road-wise, but we figured we couldn’t be the only confused tourists trying to get back to America and there were plenty of signs directing us there, even if they did appear to lead us in circles a couple of times.

The really strange moment was when we got to the border and were asked what the purpose of our trip was. I couldn’t work out why they cared about our reasons for going to Canada, given that the odds we were going to answer “drug smuggling” were low.

And then we remembered; the border officer meant our “trip” into the USA. We were thinking, lulled by the still unfamiliar land-border thing, of it as driving home; back to our house and our cat and our jobs. But we weren’t, or at least, there was no guarantee we could. We were strangers coming into a strange land, and they wanted to know why we were going to America. “Going home” wasn’t going to cut it.

The Falls.

But before that, when we were still in Canada, looking at the Falls, they made me think not about borders and crossings and belonging, but the slow inexorable power of water, usually hidden in streams and rain and patient wearing-away, not very often let slip in volume like this. And Niagara – impressive as it is – is a poor remnant of the mighty flows that shaped the North American continent. At the end of the last ice age, a glacial lake in what is now Washington State periodically flooded to the sea, discharging water at five thousand times the rate of the Niagara Falls today. Some of the debris swept away by those floods – rock and plant and animal – went all the way out to the Juan de Fuca ridge, where the hydrothermal vent systems I study are, and is still slowly being metamorphosed from organic to inorganic carbon, deep under sediment and lava flows, producing methane that shows up when we sample hydrothermal fluid.

Which proves, I suppose, that I like my work enough that I can mentally relate anything to it.

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Toronto In A Day

In a practical sense we only had one day to see Toronto, so we settled for two things: the Royal Ontario Museum and the fifth-tallest tower in the world. (If we’d been two years earlier it would have been the tallest, but the Burj Khalifa and a few others all overtopped it in 2010.)

That does rather date some of their internal decoration scheme.

The most striking thing about the place, by far, was Lake Ontario. I have been to plenty of harbours in my life. None of them have been freshwater. Standing on a waterfront that smelled nothing like the sea was just plain weird. There were seagulls and ships and everything, but the smell was all wrong. It’s not the sort of thing you think about until you go there.

It was actually quite warm for the time of year, but the waterfront ice-rink was open - if deserted.

 The defining characteristic of the city as a whole – I’m beginning to find that big Western cities have a certain sameness to them, in a convergent way – was definitely the construction. It was everywhere, on the roads and in the subway stations and on building lots, cranes and bulldozers and safety-vested people any direction you turned in. That hasn’t been a defining feature of any city I’ve been in since 2008, when Singapore’s harbour skyline was a forest of cranes, before the financial crisis brought much of that sort of thing grinding to a halt. (Any city except perhaps Christchurch, but that’s a peculiar mix of construction and destruction, newness and heartache, which is quite unique unto itself.)

Perhaps it was all the construction that caused us to stumble unwittingly into the very thing (or one of them) we’d been trying to avoid by visiting Canada – Black Friday. Secure in the knowledge that Canada’s Thanksgiving was a whole month earlier and they didn’t do the Black Friday thing anyway, we decided at the last minute to pick Mike up some shoes for the restaurant that evening (his good work shoes had torn as we were packing, so he’d just brought sneakers.) I hadn’t even heard of the Toronto Eaton Centre, it not being my sort of tourist attraction, and I definitely couldn’t have told you where it was, so when I saw a shoe store that looked like it might have the sort of thing we were looking for (comfortable men’s black work shoes are much harder to find than it would seem at first glance) we wandered blithely in. I even remarked that we were lucky; it looked like there might be other shops behind it.

Needless to say, I was wrong about the Black Friday thing (or, to be more precise, out-of-date) and the enormous mall that revealed itself to us was as crowded as any Boxing Day sale I ever worked. We did eventually find shoes, but not before establishing that a) Canadians apparently have really terrible food court etiquette (if there are ten or fifteen people standing around with trays, continuing to take up tables while not eating or even having food in front of you is not polite) and that Salvation Army bellringers inspire me more to wistful dreams of violence than charity. See, when I heard about them, I figured it was a form of busking – playing carols on bells, or something, which can get tedious (ask me sometime about the kid who played two carols repetitively for two hours outside the store I worked in) but is usually fine. Instead, it turns out that they just ring little bells. Repetitively. Not as a “if you give us money we’ll stop for five minutes” scheme, either. That would at least be logical. Just endless, chiming bells.

Fortunately, after we escaped the mall, the Royal Ontario Museum was exactly the sort of museum I like to visit, which meant it had large wildlife collections and lots of dinosaurs. The part of me that is still five years old and really disappointed at Te Papa’s extreme lack of dinosaurs is gleefully pleased every time a museum has them.

Including a big sauropod skeleton in the foyer, which is basically the gold standard for dinosaur skeletons.

 Sadly I didn’t get a photo of their very nice mural of Crusaders Vs. Muslim Horsebowmen, nor am I quite certain of its relevance to a Canadian museum, but then again all the Roman statuary is pretty non-relevant to Canada specifically too and that was also pretty awesome.

We finished up the day by having dinner at the top of the CN Tower, because we had to eat dinner somewhere and why not? It fulfilled an apparently long-held goal of Mike’s by turning out to be a revolving restaurant, which I hadn’t known before booking it and probably would have given me second thoughts if I had (restaurants with views are bad enough; revolving ones seem almost to guarantee gruel) but it was actually a lot of fun. We got in early enough to get a seat right by the window and stayed long enough to go around one and a half times, trying to orient ourselves to Toronto’s geography and just making out lights on the other side of Lake Ontario. Even Mike accidentally ordering fish (note: Arctic char is a fish, in case you were wondering) didn’t spoil it. (He does like fish, he just wasn’t expecting fish.)

At the top of the tower. (The waiter was really good at taking photos. I guess they get a lot of practice.)

 I’m not quite sure about this statue in La Tour’s gift shop, though. Unless they were deliberately poking fun at stereotypes about Canada for the benefit of unsuspecting tourists, which…seems pretty likely, now I think about it.

It's a moose wearing a Mountie uniform. You see my point.

The real victory out of visiting Toronto, however: Mike has decided that my lack of obnoxiousness in the face of bilingualism on every sign (and my knowledge actually saving the day when the waitress accidentally set the portable credit card machine to French at dinner our first night) means he will graciously consent to visiting Quebec next year. Toronto, you were nice, but that I can’t wait for.

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